Thanks Momma

Filed under:Blog — posted by Shari on June 30, 2008 @ 1:41 pm

Thanks Momma, I say, this fine Monday. At 6:45am, I cast an eye around a sliver of vertical blind. Royal blue sky and not a lick of wind. No toast and tea at the beach this morning. It was my version of a rush at home and I was in the water at 7:30am. I didn’t look at the internet before going either. So, imagine my delight to discover that, for once, ignorance worked in my favour. I was wrong about the school holidays. They don’t start until next week. So, rather than a hundred groms buzzing around my head, I was met with two, yes TWO, other surfers at Dee Why Beach. How ’bout them apples? Ok, so the surf had dropped, a lot. But the sun shone warm on my chest, the waves were glassy and welcomed me into a few pockets. And it was a grand morning to be alive and be a surfer. Top o’ the day to the rest of ya. 😉 

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image: detail of installation by Bronwyn Lace